ALL AROUND TOWN—VIEW A
ALTERNATIVE SLEEVE INSTRUCTIONS
Right Front, step 7
Serge the shoulder, armhole, and side vent edges as directed in step 7. Do not serge the side seam edge.
Left Front, step 3
Serge the shoulder edge, the side vent edge, and the hem as directed in step 3. Do not serge the side seam edge.
Back, step 2
Serge the shoulder edge, the side vent edges, and the hem as directed in step 2. Do not serge the side seam edge.
Continue with the construction, using all the steps given in the pattern until you get to the Sleeves. Then use the alternative instructions below.
Sleeves, step 2
Serge the raw hem edge and press the hem as directed. Do not serge the long vertical edges of the Sleeves.
Pin the Sleeves to the garment in accordance with the instructions in steps 1 and 2. Stitch the Sleeves to the garment all the way across the sleeve cap (do not begin and end stitching at the underarm dots).
Serge the sleeve seams now, trimming them to 3/8”, rather than waiting till a later step.
Side Seams and Underarm Sleeve Seams
Use these instructions rather than steps 1 to 3 in the pattern.
- Open out the pressed sleeve hems. Right side to right side and raw edges matching, pin the underarm sleeve seam and the side seam down to the stitch termination dots at the side vents. Match the sleeve seams and the clips on the sleeve. Baste for 2”, centered on the matched sleeve seams. On the right side, check the match. If the match is not perfect, remove the basting and try again.
- Using a 5/8” seam allowance, stitch the seam from the serged sleeve hem edge to the stitch termination dot at the side vent. Secure your stitching at the dot. Stitch the seam again for 3”, centered on the matched sleeve seam allowances.
- At the angle at the top of the side vent, clip into the seam allowance to but not through the stitching, so the top of the vent looks like an upside-down W.
Clip into the seam allowances several times in a 3” section of the seam centered on the matched sleeve seams. Clip almost to the stitching to allow the fabric to drape properly when the garment is worn.
- Serge the underarm/side seam, trimming the seam allowances to 3/8”. As you serge over the clips at the underarm, pull those clips open as much as you can, serging in the air over the opened clips. At the top of the vent, move the side vents out of the way and serge off the seam allowances, leaving a long serger chain below the clip. Using a tapestry needle with a large eye, run the serger chain back through the serging for 1”, then trim off the remaining chain.
- Press the serged seam allowances toward the back. Press the side vents at 1” from the dot to the miters (you will have sewn these at an earlier step in the pattern instructions). Turn the clipped edge at the top of the vent under (it will again look like an upside-down V when you have turned down the top of both vents). Press.
Continue with the instructions for the garment hem, sliding strips of Steam-a-Seam under the side vents, including those little folded sections at the top. As you stitch the garment hem, be sure to catch the V-shaped tops of the side vents.