Working with Cutting Line Designs Patterns
Cutting Line Designs patterns use a completely unique draft that is unlike the draft of other commercial or independent pattern companies. We suggest that “borrowing” all the alterations you normally do to other patterns SHOULD NOT be needed with CLD patterns.
FIND YOUR SIZE
First, look at the finished garment measurements on the envelope (and DO NOT use the body measurements at the top of the envelope as your guide). The Finished Garment Measurements are also included on Page 1 of the Instructions and on the Front pattern piece.
Take into account the style of the garment you’ve chosen. There is ‘wearing ease’. . . ‘designer ease’. . . and ‘you have an opinion ease’. Some of the Cutting Line Design Patterns are very loose fitting . . . intended by the designer, while others are closer to the body. This, too, is the designer’s intention.
So measure yourself at bust and hip and record those measurements. Now consider the style: how much ease do you want? Add the amount of ease you want to your body measurements to give yourself a good starting place.
Then go to your closet, select a style similar to the pattern you’ve chosen, and measure the circumference at the bust and hem. Try the garment on. Does it fit the way you like, does it button, does it go around your body? Do you need more room, and where do you need more room, in the back or front or both? This exercise should help you decide whether the measurements + ease you’ve already recorded are on the right track. You’ll also have an idea of what alterations you might need.
Now look at the Finished Garment Measurements on the pattern envelope (remember, not the body measurements at the top of the envelope) to see what size is closest to the garment you just measured. For a loose fitting style, you might be tempted to go down a size, which would make the neck circumference smaller, the sleeve tighter, and the garment shorter. Instead, you might want to consider making your normal size after removing tissue within the ‘body of the garment’ to just bring in the circumference. Enjoy Cutting Line Design Patterns; it’s like having a sewing lesson in every pattern.
For more good info on sizes, keep reading!!
KNOW YOUR HALF MEASUREMENTS
Take measurements from side seam to side seam across the front and across the back of your body.
BUST- Front:_____” Back: _____”
WAIST- Front: _____” Back: _____”
FULL HIP - Front: _____” Back: _____”
ACROSS FRONT – at armscye notch_____” with arms down
ACROSS BACK -at armscye notch_____” with arms down
SHOULDER/SLEEVE LENGTH - _______”
FITTING EASE…DESIGNER EASE…YOU HAVE AN OPINION EASE
THE MINIMUM AMOUNT OF EASE NEEDED
BUST - 2½”
WAIST – 1”- 1½”
HIPS – (FULLEST PART) – 2”- 3”
CROTCH DEPTH - PANTS (CLD PANTS) 0”
CROTCH DEPTH - PANTS (OTHER COMPANIES) ½”- ¾”
MEMORIZE YOUR HALF MEASUREMENTS
Once you know these measurements, you can measure R-T-W (ready to wear) across the garment as it lies flat on a table or hangs flat from a hanger. As an example: If your hips are 40 inches in circumference & you like 4” of ease, your half measurement is 22”. From side seam to side seam the garment should measure 22 inches.
That’s what you need even if the fabrics has stretch. Lycra or Spandex in a fabric helps it to retain its shape but you can’t “buy into” a smaller size.
But when working with patterns you can refine the fit to get exactly the amount needed in the front and the back of a pattern.
ALWAYS CARRY A MEASURING TAPE
Know your finished length of pants down your side seam.
Depth of crotch on pants is not a reliable indicator. It can differ among designers and manufacturers.
Set-in sleeves or drop shoulders can vary. The total measurement from neck to wrist over your shoulder and bent elbow is an easy and accurate measurement to use as a guide.
A straight shoulder line makes you look healthier and younger (shoulder pads help to give you the straight shoulder line).
Knowing your half measurements will help you know which garments to take into the dressing room to try on. Saves time and frustration! But they also can serve as another way to evaluate a pattern and know where you might need more or less room.